Calendau is the Provençal equivalent of the French name, Noël, which used to be given to each child born on Christmas. Calendau is also a name from an 1867 Provençal poem about a fisherman that falls deeply in love. The love described in this poem is what inspired two friends, Philippe Cambie and Gilles Ferran, to become vineyard owners.  Their vineyards are located in Plan de Dieu which is between Chateauneuf and Rasteau in the region of Southern Rhône, France and are composed of 50% old Mourvèdre and 50% very old Grenache. The area is rooted in history. Nearby is the historic walled city of Avignon, the papal seat in the 14th century, as well as the historic city of Orange, home to an ancient Roman theater where opera is still performed today. In fact, many of the old cellars here are on sites built by the Romans.  The climate is Mediterranean – hot days, lots of sunshine, and cooled by a wind from the Alps called Le Mistral. 

This wine from Domaine Calendau is juicy and spicy, made of a blend of Mourvèdre and Grenache. The wine critic Robert Parker notes “black raspberry, blackberry, caramelized cherries, spice and crushed violets.” 2013 Calendal Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu produced and bottled by Domaine Calendal. Aged 12 to 14 months in one year barrels. 15% ABV. Find yours for $18.99 at Pine Brook Bottle Shop.

This holiday season, MaconWine.com will feature wines you can find in the local area that pair well with celebrations, food, and family.

The story of this Italian varietal, Primitivo, actually starts in Croatia where in the 15th century the grape was known as tribidrag. In America, the grape is known as Zinfandel. Our understanding is that the grapevine was brought to Italy across the Adriatic Sea by Slavic escapes who abandoned their land because of the Ottoman occupation. In the 18th century, an Italian priest, Don Filippo, noticed that the vines matured earlier than others and as a result called the variety primativo from the Latin primativus (“first to ripen”), and started planting the vine in Puglia (also known as Apulia).  In America, the grape was first imported in 1829 from the Austrian imperial nursery in Vienna (now enter the “The Sound of Music”) by George Gibbs of Long Island, who took it to Boston where the grape first was known at Zenfendal among New Englanders. Those who participated in the California Gold Rush brought the grape to California where it is now most prolific.

The Italian region of Puglia is across the Adriatic Sea from Greece, and sits on the heel of the Italian boot.  This region produces more Italian wine than any other, as well as more olive oil than any other region.  A Mediterranean climate with topsoils rich in iron oxide, the region is well suited to agriculture.  

This specific wine from producer Polvanera has a ruby color with aromas of cherry jam and a velvety texture. Find yours for $18.99 at Carriage Hills Bottle Shoppe. Wine details: 2018 Polvanera Calx Primitivo Puglia produced and bottled by Cantine Polvanera Gioia del Colle (BA) Italia. Certified Organic. Fermentation in steel tanks; unfiltered and unfined. 12.5% ABV.  

This holiday season, MaconWine.com will feature six wines you can find in the local area that pair well with celebrations, food, and family.

The Spanish wine region Rioja is known for red wine (around 90% if wine produced is red ), but a fascinating wine on the rise is old-style white Rioja.  The grape varietal used is viura (also known as macabeo), and the tradition is to make the wine and age the wine in oak for years.  The region of Rioja is located in the remote interior of northern Spain.  The area is shielded by mountain ridges from the influences of the Atlantic ocean, and rests on a large plateau at an elevation of more than 1,500 feet. White Rioja is a dry wine with a honey gold color, good acidity, and is full-bodied.  The wine tastes of roasted hazelnuts, chamomile, tangy citrus, butter, and salt.  In addition, this white wine can age in bottle for well over a decade when under cellar conditions.  In fact, the wine in this picture is from the 1996 vintage (tasted March 2020).

The two well known producers of white Rioja are R. López de Heredia (pictured) and Marqués de Murietta. The wine I opened on the stone patio on this beautiful Spring day is the 1996 R. Lopéz de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva and has a drinking window estimated up to 2030.  Winemaker notes: “The White Tondonia Gran Reserva is golden in color with perfumed, persistent and complex aromas. Aged 10 years, being racked twice per year, this wine is round and very smooth on the palate. This wine pairs well with all kinds of fish either boiled or grilled, preferably with sauce. All types of rice, including risotto-style. All different kinds of egg dishes. White meats such as chicken, turkey and pork. All pastas and cheeses. Blend: 90% Viura, 10% Malvasia.”

Interested?  Ask your local wine store (though this is a rare find in Macon).  Also, call us today about how we can help you host a white Rioja wine tasting, and we’ll bring it to you and your guests.

This wine has some roots in Macon.  Derek Trucks, guitarist for The Allman Brothers Band (his uncle, Butch Trucks, was a founding member of the band) from 1999 until the band’s official retirement in 2014, and his wife, Susan Tedeschi, are part of the inspiration (and original investors) for the team behind The Withers.  The founders, Andrew and Kathleen Tow, are equestrians and the name “The Withers” derives from measuring the height of a horse – the withers being the highest point.  This represents the team’s drive to produce elegant, nuanced, balanced wines from cool climates in California.  Specifically, the Sonoma Coast, Mendocino, and Sierra Foothills.  Also, the grey horse on the label is Mr. Burgess – a horse and member of the Tow family.  According to the Tows, Mr. Burgess is “sensitive and beautiful” and an inspiration for winemaking.  The winemaker is David Low, and the winery focuses on Pinot Noir and Rhône varietals (Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre).

Spotted at Pinebrook Bottle Shop for $47, you can now enjoy this Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley in Mendocino.  The wine uses the Pommard clonal of the grape and is made in inspiration of the Burgundian style, focusing on balance.  The wineshop also sells other offerings from the winery, including other varietals.  Winemaker Notes: This superb Pinot reveals its Pommard clonal heritage through a combination of focused dark bing cherry notes and fine grained tannins.  Medium bodied and built to age while slowly revealing additional high toned aromas of underbrush, herbs, chocolate and anise flavors with exposure to air, it is reminiscent of its Burgundian Pommard inspirations.

A unique producer in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains AVA, Andrew Dow Beckham and Annedria, his spouse, focus on Pinot Noir and are especially known for the use of clay amphoras as aging vessels.  I first read about the Beckhams in Kevin Begos’s Tasting the Past. In the book, Kevin explains, “The Beckhams farm organically, using indigenous yeasts and bottling most of their wines without filtration or other manipulation, just as everyone did for thousands of years.” He also quotes Andrew, “The wines that are aging in clay seem to be evolving at a much faster speed than wines that are aging in wood … there’s more energy to them. They all have a very dusty, earth-like texture and intense clarity.” Kevin explains, “The clay gives an earthy, iron undertone to the wines, but somehow makes fruits, spices, and other aromas pop out, like clear notes on an acoustic guitar, not a fruit bomb.” The Beckhams use huge Caucasus-style clay amphoras during the aging process that can require up to 1,300 pounds of clay to produce, often sourced from the Sacramento Delta.  The vessels resemble the ancient amphoras used in the Caucasus called qvevri.

You can purchase wines directly from Annedria at Beckham Estate Vineyard starting around $30/bottle. Tonight, I’ve opened the 2017 Estate Pinot Noir, which is a blend of the Pinot Noir varietal sourced across their entire vineyard.  Though this particular bottling does not age in clay amphora, the wine offers a traditional medium-bodied Oregon palate of strawberry, raspberry, and earth.

This Zinfandel blend is the first such release from Orin Swift Cellars since 2008.  The original blend, named The Prisoner, was well acclaimed and became a knockout brand over the years, but rights to the brand were sold in 2008 (for $285 million) as well as an agreement by Mr. David Phinney, the owner and winemaker, not to make another Zinfandel blend for eight years.

Spotted at Pinebrook Bottle Shop for $45, you can now enjoy Mr. Phinney’s latest release.  The wine is a blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, and Grenache sourced from grapes all around California.  This is a full bodied, powerful wine that tastes of lush fruit.  The bottle label is part of a series of eight different labels – all fascinating.  Winemaker Notes: An opaque core with a red amethyst rim, the wine opens with ripe raspberry and blackberry, dark plum preserves and hints of black pepper and clove. An entry of heft, the palate is packed with blueberry and sweet black cherry along with touch of fresh herbs—thyme, savory and tarragon. Long on the finish, the ripe tannins, a dash of ash, and notes of black tea round out the wine.

Happy Thanksgiving!  A wonderful time with family, friends, and traditions is in order – what a year!  I look forward to this day every year, and the time that follows.  This year, we are traveling out of town, but bringing homemade buttermilk biscuits and an assortment of wines for all to enjoy.  For those looking for recommendations to pair with the Thanksgiving spread, I recommend sparkling wine/Champagne, Sauternes, and Pinor Noir/Burgundy.  Go ahead, have three glasses and enjoy each one throughout the meal.

This year, I’m swapping out many of the French wines for American versions – this is Thanksgiving after all.  One of my favorite Oregon Pinot Noir estates is Eminent Domaine, so I’ll bring the 2016 Ribbon Ridge Estate Grown Pinot Noir.  Another one of my favorite sparkling wine produces is Iron Horse. This was the wine served at my wedding and the producers frequently release variations and themed blends.  This year, I’ll bring the 2012 Classic Vintage Brut.  Then, a bit untraditional for me, I’ll bring a sweet wine and what better than a Sauternes.  These wines benefit from long aging, but alas I have none left in the cellar so I’ll bring a 2013 Chateau La Fleur d’Or, which is a great value.  All of these wines will pair so very well with the savory, buttery, and sweet foods of Thanksgiving.  Cheers to a bounty, and to all of our blessings!

I first visited the Suisun Valley in Solano County, California this past February, enjoying a wonderful meal at Mankas Steakhouse on a small, unassuming corner.  The people are wonderful, and so are the wines. This wine, Sea Sun Chardonnay, is a new offering from Wagner – the owners of the famed Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon. Sea Sun was spotted at Fresh Market for $24.99.  The wine comes from multiple places around California, to include Santa Barbara, Monterey, and Solano Counties.

From the winemaker: A pale straw color with sunshiny highlights, Sea Sun has a subtle nose, with scents of lightly grilled mango, soft butterscotch, juicy red apple, and newly ripened pineapple and apricot. Hints of a springtime meadow, fresh sea air and a trace of smokiness add intriguing layers. Entry on the palate is round and creamy, with flavors of lemon curd and brown spice on the mid-palate. This wine’s fruit flavors, oak, and acidity are seamlessly integrated, with no one element standing out. The finish has a grippy, toasty quality, with notes of cinnamon and lemon squares. A final kick of bright acidity draws you back for another sip.

This pleasing wine for a hot mid-Georgia summer day was spotted at Macon Beverage Outlet for $24.99.  The wine comes from Argentina, known for high altitude vineyards – some of the highest in the world.  The fruit for this chardonnay is sourced from vineyards at nearly 5,000 feet.  This winery has a long tradition and was founded in 1902 by an Italian immigrant to Argentina – Nicola Catena. I had the pleasure of hearing about this family’s strong traditions at a talk held by Nicola’s daughter, Laura, who is now the managing director for Bodega Catena Zapata.

From the winemaker: The fruit from the Adrianna vineyard has a purity of flavors and a minerality that is particular to this vineyard and can not be found anywhere else in Mendoza. The nearby, gravel-covered Domingo Vineyard makes up 20% of the blend. Elevage: 14 months in French oak barrels. Whole clusters are pressed, and then 100% fermented in 500 L French oak barrels with natural yeasts at low temperatures. Wild yeasts. Aged for 14 months in French oak. 30% does not undergo malolactic fermentation. First, second and third use barrels used. Varietal: 100% Chardonnay, Alcohol: 13.8%, Total Acidity: 7.5 grams/liter, pH: 3.19.

I first learned of this wine in an article by Karen MacNeil (author of The Wine Bible) on Napa mountain ranges in the first wine book I ever owned, The Ultimate Wine Companion, edited by Kevin Zraly (from the late restaurant, Windows on the World atop One World Trade Center).  I spotted this wine at Hilltop Liquor for $34.99.  As Karen explains, vineyards are not only found on the valley floor, but also along the two mountain ranges of Napa: the Mayacamas to the west and the Vaca to the east.  Atlas Peak is found on the Vaca range.  Generally speaking, grapes that come from the mountain vineyards provide concentrated fruit, as the elevation (up to 2,000 feet) places the vineyards above Napa’s fog line, keeps temperatures cool, and allows the grapes to ripen slowly while bathing in sun for many hours each day.  Atlas Peak is one of 16 AVAs within the Napa Valley AVA, so you will find other wines that designate Atlas Peak as the source of the grapes.

As for this spotted wine, though the name of the winery is Atlas Peak, the sources of grapes come from all over Napa Valley.  At a wine experience, we can discuss how to read wine labels so that you know what your are buying or at least what to generally expect when you open the bottle.  Also, this winery has an interesting story of ownership, which details how complex some of the business is in the wine industry.  Currently, Atlas Peak is operated by Accolade Wines, an international company that manages over 40 brands around the world and is headquartered in Australia.  Accolade was purchased last year by Carlyle Group, an American private equity company, for $1 billion.

From the winemaker: Robust and full-bodied with supple tannins and dense blackberry fruit. Some of the world’s best vineyards dot the hillsides, mountain tops, and lowlands of the Napa Valley. We source our blend from multiple sites throughout the valley obtaining rich ripe fruit from up-valley near Calistoga, structure and length from the famous ‘Rutherford dust’, texture from Oakville, deep concentration from the famed Atlas Peak and elegance and refinement from Spring Mountain.