A unique producer in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains AVA, Andrew Dow Beckham and Annedria, his spouse, focus on Pinot Noir and are especially known for the use of clay amphoras as aging vessels.  I first read about the Beckhams in Kevin Begos’s Tasting the Past. In the book, Kevin explains, “The Beckhams farm organically, using indigenous yeasts and bottling most of their wines without filtration or other manipulation, just as everyone did for thousands of years.” He also quotes Andrew, “The wines that are aging in clay seem to be evolving at a much faster speed than wines that are aging in wood … there’s more energy to them. They all have a very dusty, earth-like texture and intense clarity.” Kevin explains, “The clay gives an earthy, iron undertone to the wines, but somehow makes fruits, spices, and other aromas pop out, like clear notes on an acoustic guitar, not a fruit bomb.” The Beckhams use huge Caucasus-style clay amphoras during the aging process that can require up to 1,300 pounds of clay to produce, often sourced from the Sacramento Delta.  The vessels resemble the ancient amphoras used in the Caucasus called qvevri.

You can purchase wines directly from Annedria at Beckham Estate Vineyard starting around $30/bottle. Tonight, I’ve opened the 2017 Estate Pinot Noir, which is a blend of the Pinot Noir varietal sourced across their entire vineyard.  Though this particular bottling does not age in clay amphora, the wine offers a traditional medium-bodied Oregon palate of strawberry, raspberry, and earth.